Want to play your GB/GBC/GBA games on the big screen using original hardware? Now you can! Just swap out the LCD for our board, solder the included wires and you’re ready to go! Designed and made in Australia.
AdvanceVGA offers 3x scaling (720×480) with an output resolution 800×600 at 59.73Hz refresh rate (the GBA’s native refresh rate) with no screen tearing. There are no video or other options available to configure.
This device may not work properly on older TVs such as Plasma / LCDs (any TV that doesn’t support HDMI would likely be too old). It should work on most computer monitors that support VGA. Make sure you have a VGA cable.
Small amounts of shell filing/cutting is required for the VGA/Power connectors. Powered via a 5V Micro-USB or USB-C connector – you will need to solder the VGA connector to the sub-board. Draws about 130mA at 5V with a regular cartridge.
We’ve also included our Wireless Gameboy receiver as an option on the board so you can play your games with a GB or GBA of your choice (provided you have our TX Cart). You can also power on/off GBA via the WGC too which by holding down start for 3-4 seconds and pressing up to power it on or down to power it off; might be useful for multi-game carts.
Kit contents:
– Main PCB
– VGA connector (may be blue or black) and Micro-USB or USB-C connector with the PCB (you will need to solder the VGA connector yourself)
– 32 or 40 pin FFC (ribbon cable)
You will also need:
– Wires (multi-colour wires are recommended for ease of use)
– Kapton tape to cover up the back side exposed pins
– Soldering iron + solder
Questions? Jump on our Discord server where we and other users can help you or contact us via Twitter.
This device won’t work on older TVs say any that aren’t modern enough to support HDMI but there may be a small chance it might not work on your modern TV/monitor. If the device doesn’t work on your modern TV/Monitor, you can send it back for a refund within 14 days of receiving the item.
On some TVs/monitors there may be a light black border covering the rest of the 800×600 frame.
Likely won’t work with any VGA to HDMI converters (check the list below which users report have worked for them)
There are no options you can change.
Attaching a wire to the GBA’s 4.194MHz crystal may cause it’s frequency to change very slightly (not noticeable).
Soldering is required as well as some shell cutting/filing for the VGA/power connector. If you add the Wireless RX option, it can be very tricky to solder the wires to all the little pads.
Lag from when the GBA first writes to the screen to when this devices outputs it to the TV/Monitor is around 1.5ms. You then have to add on the screen TV/Monitor refresh time.
Any artifacts that appear on the GBA screen will appear on the monitor/TV too, using this device will make it more noticeable. Examples: In SML if you look closely, you can see a line glitch appear near the top of the screen every now and then. For Links Awaking, objects that try to be transparent will appear to be blinking.
Monitors / TVs Tested
Dell 19″ P1911B Monitor
HP 19″ LE1901wm Monitor
LG 19″ L1954TQ Monitor
Samsung 19″ 940N Monitor
LG 21.5″ E2251T-BN Monitor
LG 23″ IPS235P Monitor
Samsung 24″ C24F390FHE Monitor
LG 22″ 22LH20D TV
Soniq 32″ E32V17A-AU TV
LG 42″ 42LD320H TV
Soniq 43″ S43V15A TV
LG 42″ 42PC5D-AB Plasma TV
Soniq 32″ QV320PH Plasma TV (not working)
LG 42″ RT-42PZ45V Plasma TV (not working)
VGA to HDMI converters users have confirmed work
Key Digital KD-VTCA3 – This device works as long as both dip switches are set to on. Connected to the retro tink 5X and set to 1440p output.
Lemorele VGA Adapter to HDMI with Audio, 1080p 60Hz HDMI Female to VGA Male Converter
1. Solder wires to the VGA, XTAL, 5V/GND and GBA +/- pads on the back of the board. Twist the VGA wires together so you don’t get them confused with other wires. If you purchased the Wireless RX option, you should solder wires to those pads too.
VGA Red = Red
VGA Green = Green
VGA Blue = Blue
VGA GND = Black
VGA HSYNC = Purple
VGA VSYNC = Yellow
5V = Red
GND = Blue
GBA+ = Orange
GBA- = Black
XTAL = White
2. Solder the XTAL wire to the GBA CK2 pad and the GBA+ wire to the GBA positive battery terminal and GBA- wire to the GBA negative battery terminal.
If you purchased the Wireless RX option, you should solder wires to:
TP0 = A
TP1 = B
TP2 = SL (Select)
TP3 = ST (Start)
TP4 = R (Right)
TP5 = L (Left)
TP6 = U (Up)
TP7 = D (Down)
TP8 = TR – Right trigger
TP9 = TL – Left trigger
3. Insert the ribbon cable into the AdvanceVGA connector first (pins down, blue tab up) and then into the GBA LCD connector (pins up, blue tab down). Place AdvanceVGA above the GBA board and gently fold the ribbon cable into place.
4. Place the boards into the top shell of the GBA. AdvanceVGA should fit into where the LCD screen was. Make sure the VGA and power cables are easily accessible as shown. Insert the screws as usual.
5. Test fit the VGA/Power sub-board, it should fit pretty snug and you will need to file down the area where the USB connector is.
6. Feed the VGA and power cables into the small cutout on the bottom shell and screw down the bottom shell.
7. Solder the VGA and power cables and fit the sub-board in place.
8. The battery cover will require cutting/filing depending on how you wish to cover the VGA/Power ports. Here I chose the quick option and just to cut the cover to line up with the VGA connector.
While the VGA/Power board fits snug due to the VGA cable being stiff, it can pull out the VGA/Power board from the housing if you’re not careful. To prevent this, you could either glue the battery cover or VGA connector in place or use some double sided tape. Let us know if you have a better solution!
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