Things to consider
- This device won’t work on older TVs say any that aren’t modern enough to support HDMI but there may be a small chance it might not work on your modern TV/monitor. If the device doesn’t work on your modern TV/Monitor, you can send it back for a refund within 14 days of receiving the item.
- On some TVs/monitors there may be a light black border covering the rest of the 800×600 frame.
- Likely won’t work with any VGA to HDMI converters (check the list below which users report have worked for them)
- There are no options you can change.
- Attaching a wire to the GBA’s 4.194MHz crystal may cause it’s frequency to change very slightly (not noticeable).
- Soldering is required as well as some shell cutting/filing for the VGA/power connector. If you add the Wireless RX option, it can be very tricky to solder the wires to all the little pads.
- Lag from when the GBA first writes to the screen to when this devices outputs it to the TV/Monitor is around 1.5ms. You then have to add on the screen TV/Monitor refresh time.
- Any artifacts that appear on the GBA screen will appear on the monitor/TV too, using this device will make it more noticeable. Examples: In SML if you look closely, you can see a line glitch appear near the top of the screen every now and then. For Links Awaking, objects that try to be transparent will appear to be blinking.
Monitors / TVs Tested
- Dell 19″ P1911B Monitor
- HP 19″ LE1901wm Monitor
- LG 19″ L1954TQ Monitor
- Samsung 19″ 940N Monitor
- LG 21.5″ E2251T-BN Monitor
- LG 23″ IPS235P Monitor
- Samsung 24″ C24F390FHE Monitor
- LG 22″ 22LH20D TV
- Soniq 32″ E32V17A-AU TV
- LG 42″ 42LD320H TV
- Soniq 43″ S43V15A TV
- LG 42″ 42PC5D-AB Plasma TV
- Soniq 32″ QV320PH Plasma TV (not working)
- LG 42″ RT-42PZ45V Plasma TV (not working)
VGA to HDMI converters users have confirmed work
Key Digital KD-VTCA3 – This device works as long as both dip switches are set to on. Connected to the retro tink 5X and set to 1440p output.
Lemorele VGA Adapter to HDMI with Audio, 1080p 60Hz HDMI Female to VGA Male Converter
1. Solder wires to the VGA, XTAL, 5V/GND and GBA +/- pads on the back of the board. Twist the VGA wires together so you don’t get them confused with other wires. If you purchased the Wireless RX option, you should solder wires to those pads too.
VGA Red = Red
VGA Green = Green
VGA Blue = Blue
VGA GND = Black
VGA HSYNC = Purple
VGA VSYNC = Yellow
5V = Red
GND = Blue
GBA+ = Orange
GBA- = Black
XTAL = White
2. Solder the XTAL wire to the GBA CK2 pad and the GBA+ wire to the GBA positive battery terminal and GBA- wire to the GBA negative battery terminal.
If you purchased the Wireless RX option, you should solder wires to:
TP0 = A
TP1 = B
TP2 = SL (Select)
TP3 = ST (Start)
TP4 = R (Right)
TP5 = L (Left)
TP6 = U (Up)
TP7 = D (Down)
TP8 = TR – Right trigger
TP9 = TL – Left trigger
3. Insert the ribbon cable into the AdvanceVGA connector first (pins down, blue tab up) and then into the GBA LCD connector (pins up, blue tab down). Place AdvanceVGA above the GBA board and gently fold the ribbon cable into place.
4. Place the boards into the top shell of the GBA. AdvanceVGA should fit into where the LCD screen was. Make sure the VGA and power cables are easily accessible as shown. Insert the screws as usual.
5. Test fit the VGA/Power sub-board, it should fit pretty snug and you will need to file down the area where the USB connector is.
6. Feed the VGA and power cables into the small cutout on the bottom shell and screw down the bottom shell.
7. Solder the VGA and power cables and fit the sub-board in place.
8. The battery cover will require cutting/filing depending on how you wish to cover the VGA/Power ports. Here I chose the quick option and just to cut the cover to line up with the VGA connector.
While the VGA/Power board fits snug due to the VGA cable being stiff, it can pull out the VGA/Power board from the housing if you’re not careful. To prevent this, you could either glue the battery cover or VGA connector in place or use some double sided tape. Let us know if you have a better solution!
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